Poached quince with ricotta, smoked salmon hash and a trifle – indulgent dishes for festive mornings (yes, even the trifle)
At some point during the festivities, whether on the day itself, Christmas Eve or Boxing Day, a splendid breakfast will be called for. A table with seasonal fruit and fresh baking, yoghurt or fresh milky cheeses and something from the oven. In our house that may mean a bowl of ricotta and poached fruit with a glowing syrup; or a smoked salmon hash, or a multi-layered “trifle” of creamy yoghurt, fruit puree and granola. There is likely to be a jug of seasonal juice too, perhaps a dazzling wake-up call of citrus fruit and pomegranate.
I feel there is more than enough to do in the kitchen at this time of year, so I try to keep such celebratory meals easy to deal with. I am not a great one for planning in advance and I have no intention of being a slave to a fantasy kitchen timetable, but I do believe it is worth getting a few things made the day before. Money in the bank so to speak. This is as straightforward as baking a batch of oat and marmalade slices the night before; a hash made with potatoes that were cooked earlier, and that gorgeous trifle is much better for a night in the fridge.